A Sewing Triumph: My First, Self Drafted Skirt

Last night, I finished my first, self drafted skirt. The origin of this skirt begins many, many years ago. One day my lovely grandmother took my sister, cousin and myself to a fabric store and allowed us to pick out a length of fabric for our own amusement. I was immediately attracted to a beautiful cotton dyed in varigated colors between dark green, rich purple and flame red. (Unfortunately still not possessing a camera, my readers will have to use their imagination. It's beautiful, if that helps.)

For many years, this skirt remained in my closet occasional serving the function of cape, shawl, sari, sarong, or tie skirt. (Yes, I was one of those children who believed getting dressed involved throwing on the first three pieces of clothing at hand. Did I say was?)  Then one day, i decided to make a skirt. After reviewing the items in my closet, I decided, with no drafting experience, to turn it into a skirt.

Unfortunately, I don't remember the exact process. I remember there was a lot of measuring, crawling about on the floor with a piece of chalk, re-measuring, re calculating, redrawing lines and then the first cut! I ended up cutting ten panels and one waistband from the entire length. Serged the edges (my younger self was so meticulous!), sewed reasonably straight seams (amazing what can be done when the fabric is cut smoothly), attached the waist band (mostly), and... forgot about it in my closet for at least three years. Maybe more.

This past spring visit to my house, I rescued the project from my house and finished it up this past weekend. I am pleased with myself: I improvised a pseudo placket from part of the waist band, attached it with four buttons I've had rattling about for the past four years, and tailored the waistband for a good fit. The hem is wonky and a little lopsided; I'll stitch it and try again. Here are some of the things I've learned:

~ Make sure you measure the buttonhole sizes properly. It doesn't matter and isn't noticeable, but I think the buttonhole is a centimeter or two larger than necessary.

~ Buttonholes are addicting.

~ If the hem is uneven, don't just roll up the edges and assume it will all work out. Better to trim off the longer lengths so that it all hems even.

~ Measure your hems. Don't just fold the cloth over twice in what you assume is half an inch.

~ Also pin the hem, even after ironing.  And then measure it to make sure all the edges are the same length.

~ Dress forms make tailoring darts easy. So much easier than trying to measure it on yourself.

~ Sewing really isn't about the exhilaration of finishing a long seam. It is much more about the finishing details, the measuring, and the willingness to unpick and try again when it isn't perfect.

In short, I am pleased. The skirt looks good, actually matches clothes in my wardrobe and I feel comfortable enough to wear it out in public. It was a pretty simple, easy project, but a good one to have drafted myself. But making the earlier walking skirt gave me a good enough command of skirt anatomy to experiment and improvise on this one. Plus, my new dress form is already beginning to pay off.

Have you ever self drafted anything? How did it go? What did you learn?

Aesthetic Analysis: Asian Bolero

This picture produces mixed feelings for me. On one hand, I dislike the wings, find the model's eye makeup and expression unflattering, and am unimpressed with the overall creation of the outfit. On the other hand, I like the bolero a lot.

Most all alternative fashion is based in a Western aesthetic. The Gothic tradition invokes the Gothic cathedrals and motifs found in Europe. Steampunk is a "history that might have been" centered around Victorian England. Finally, while Lolita fashion did originate in Japan and there are subsets of Wa- and Qi- Lolita, the aesthetic is based very much on the image of a Victorian Doll.

However, given the course of my studies, seeing how the aesthetics of other cultures plays into alternative fashion is of great interest, especially in the fantastically rich imaginings of steampunk. I believe this photo was found with a search of "Asian Steampunk."

Granted, there isn't much that is definitively "Asian" about this bolero besides the high collar and the frog fastening. However, they are nice touches. The height of the bolero is also reminiscent of the traditional Korean Handbok.

Traditional Woman's Handbok

Which I really like because it isn't a design normally seen in the west. Though on me, the combination of the high bolero with the dark waist corset might bring a too much attention to the chest for my comfort. 

Another nice feature of the outfit is the two bracelets on either wrist. They offer a nice repeat of the accent color and give a much more fantastic quality because identical bracelets on either wrist aren't a common look either. 

My take away? Next time I'm looking for a clasp for a more western outfit, I'll try adding a frog instead. Next time I'm looking for a bolero, it might be interesting to raise the hemline to a more interesting length.

How to Store Your Winter Wardrobe

I've always wondered what mothballs smelled like. They are always described as the signature scent of musty old uncles and batty aunts in children's stories, but I never knew what it meant. Now, dear readers, I know what moth crystals- if not moth balls smell like and- there's a reason my window has been open all day.

Yes, the time has come. The last sweater collected from the dry cleaners. The canister of moth crystals has been purchased. And, with the weather remaining a balmy 70 degrees, it was finally time to collect my various winter garments that were strewn about my room and put them away.

Now two boxes stand beside my door, ready to be carried down and stored in the basement until next fall. I thought it might be helpful to explain the process. It is pretty simple.

You will need:

~ Your winter clothes (These are the sweaters, long underwear, hats, mittens, scarves, and socks worn in cold weather. Also include though the long sleeves shirts, woolen skirts, and winter dresses only worn in the colder months. Why have them clutter up your closet?)

~ Boxes

~ Plastic garbage bags.

~ Moth Crystals, moth balls, cedar blocks, etc. (You want something to deter pests, especially if you are storing wool or other natural fibers)

~ Tissue paper

A very well organized basement storage

What you will do:

~ Collect all of your winter clothes. This is, for me, the hardest part. Hats seem to be hiding in strange corners, socks are unpaired, skirts forgotten in the closet. Take a week perhaps and just pile everything into the middle of the room while you collect them.

~ Clean everything. Wash it, if you can. Dry clean if you can't. Remember to scrub down boots too.

~ Sprinkle some of the mothballs or crystals on the bottom of the box. Then open a garbage bag inside. Both box and garbage bag alone have their disadvantages. Boxes are susceptible to damp and garbage bags are fragile. Simply combine them together. Plus, the moth crystals will deter the moths without, hopefully, penetrating through the plastic of the bag.

~ Though this step isn't necessary in the slightest, I wrapped all my garments in tissue paper. Why? They looked nice? An added layer of protection? The excitement of unwrapping them in the fall? It was a fun and easy step.

~ Place everything neatly inside the garbage bag. Don't squash them to make everything fit.

~ Close the bags, sprinkle some more moth balls on top, close up the boxes themselves. And store them in an out of the way place generally safe from excess damp, humidity, or light.

Voila! You are finished. Maybe you have a single box. Maybe you have a dozen. But your winter wardrobe is stored which gives your closet plenty of room to store your spring clothes.

A Sewing Triumph: My First, Finished Skirt

The cover picture

Today I have finished my first solo sewing project: Folkwear's Walking Skirt. A long journey has finally finished and I wanted to share some of the adventures and lessons learned along the way.

It all started while browsing through my local thrift shop. I happened across nearly 4 yards of blue, damask fabric. In all honesty, it is probably upholstery fabric. The drape isn't terribly good and the pattern would look nice on a chair.

Now, I know I'm not a good seamstress yet. But I have been hankering for a floor length, Victorian-esque walking skirt to incorporate into my wardrobe. At only ten dollars for 3.75 yards, it was too good a deal to pass up. What better way to practice my skills?

Next, after considerable searching, I settled on folkwear's Walking Skirt pattern. Though I have never sewn with them before, their selection of ethnic and historical patterns are lovely. If you are a seamstress or want to be, check out their catalog.

A good, basic skirt

This is when I begin to regret not having a camera to show the step by step process.

As you can see from the line drawings, the skirt is pretty basic. A very good beginner's pieces. The pattern requires straight seams, gathering, slip stitching, and a button hole. If I didn't have the internet at my disposal, I might have panicked a bit more than I did. But looking up a few tutorials for each of the terms and mucking about myself, makes me feel confident enough to try it again.

Veteran seamstresses, hold your chuckles, but here are some lessons I've learned:

~ When the pattern gives you little marks, stars, or dots, mark them on your fabric when you're cutting them out. It save so much unfolding, repinning and then marking.

~ Invest in some sewing chalk. Pen, while seemingly a brilliant idea at 11 in the evening, is not. Especially when it is a contrasting color to your fabric.

~ If your fabric has nap (ie the front looks noticeably different from the back), make sure you can easily tell the different. I spent so much time peering at the fabric trying to see if I was looking at the front or back side.

~ Notches are easier to cut and match than the raised triangles.

~ After cutting, I would serge or finish the edges some how to keep the edges neater and from fraying.

~ Buttonholes are addicting.

~ I desperately need to learn to cut in a straight line. My edges were wonky, ragged and generally a mess. But I dismissed the confusion with the rationalization that "it will be hidden by the hems." Here's a hint: those wonky edges are what you will be following during your hemming. Which leads to:

~ I desperately need to learn to sew in a straight line. Wonky edges lead to wonky seams. Those little corrections that seemed so slight under the needle are noticeable on the fabric. Also, having all the fabric lined up before sewing.

~ In short: small imperfections compound.  If you aren't making mistakes or being frustrated, you're not learning.

Street and walking view lengths

As you probably guessed, the skirt came out a little wonky. I need to hem it again and actually measure for my height this time, rather than just follow the instructions. I'll also probably cut the button off and move it an inch to the left, to tighten the waistband. In fact  I'll probably create a new waistband and try it again at some point. But now?

I am pleased. Very pleased. The skirt is full and amazing. I love that I know how to make a placket and a button hole. My understanding of skirt anatomy has increased ten fold as has my comfort levels with adjusting and tailoring skirts. I also think I'll be able to salvage my utter failure of a recent drafting attempt. 

What are some stories from your first sewing adventures?

Why Wash Wool (and Other Natural Fibers)

In an earlier post, I promised an explanation of how I wash my natural fibers. I am beginning to collect quite a few different pieces of 100% something or the other, only because I have overcome my fear of ruining those pieces in the wash- a fear which seems common to many people browsing the thrift store. This will not be an exhaustive tutorial of how to washing things- and if any of it is incorrect, please let me know before its too late. It's simply what has worked for me in the past.

If it is laundry day and the pile of clothing looms threateningly, do not- I repeat- do not just throw it all into the washer and run away. Different fabrics require different care depending on how they are created at a microscopic layer. Wool, for instance, is the hair of a sheep. And like our hair is comprised of tiny scales. When these strands are heated, the scales spring open and latch on to each other. If the fibers are then agitated, these newly formed teeth reach out and claw across each other, sticking and tangling- so when you pull your sweater out of the wash (which is designed to heat and agitate fabrics) it's the shape remains but about twenty sizes too small because of how the fibers compacted. Hence horror stories of ruined wool items.

But fear not- this need not be the fate of all garments.

First, look at the inside tag of each and ever item. These are put on by the makers who generally have a decent idea about how their item should be handled. If it says wash in cold, put in a cold pile. If warm, put in a warm pile.Never the two shall mix. It is surprising how many natural fibers can stand up to the washing machine- I have cashmere sweaters that like warm and cotton that likes hot.

If the tag says dry clean- it's a suggestion- not a commandment carved in stone.Put it to the side for the moment.

If the tag says dry clean ONLY- you're in a dilemma  The most common reason for this concern is that the item has a, generally, wool exterior and a silk or polyester lining. If you wash the wool in warm, it will shrink. If you wash the polyester in cold, it won't be washed. Dry cleaners- through magic I know not- are able to circumvent this problem. I've come up with three possible solutions:

~ If you have the money, want to ensure the life span of the piece, or just bought it from the thrift store, take it to the dry cleaners.

~ If you are a broke grad student like me and are ambivalent about necessary cleanliness or lifespan of the piece, put it in the pile with the other dry clean pieces.

~ If you are hard core, remove the lining from the item, wash each separately, and, I guess, resew them together afterwards.

Now, look to the much smaller pile of dry clean garments. What you need now is a bath tub, some mild detergent  and many, many, many towels. A spare room is also useful. Or understanding room mates.This technique is especially recommended for Grad students because the steps are far enough spaced that you can get a good chunk of studying finished between each.

First, fill up the bath tub with cold- it must be cold- water. Add a bit of detergent. Let the detergent soak in and then carefully add your sweaters and other things. If you are terribly conscientious, separate colors from whites from black. Fill the tub so that all the sweaters are submerged.

Do not scrub the sweaters.

Do not swish them about.

Do not mix them up, turn them over, attempt to reenact the parting of the red seat, etc.

Do squish them down lightly until they are submerged. Do gently press down on them- careful not to agitate the fibers. Do work any particularly dirty spots generally. (For actual stains, consult the internet.)

Let them soak in the water for as long as it takes you to memorize another chapter, then drain the water, fill the tub up again, and soak. This is the rinsing phase.

Once, you feel the detergent sufficiently rinsed, drain and leave the sweaters in there for a while. Press gently on them to remove some of the excess water, but let most of it drain out through gravity.

Here is where the towels come into play. After the sweaters are washed, rinsed, and drained, pick them up gently and, without squeezing, wringing or twisting, lay them flat on a towel. Yes, they will be heavy and soaked. Roll the towel up, squeeze out the excess water and transfer the sweater to another towel in another room. It will take about two days to dry fully (see what I said about understanding room mates) check twice a day to turn the sweater over and change out the towel underneath.

This would be an excellent time and place to put all those other clothes to dry. For, as you were reading the labels  you'll notice that about half of those clothes that can go into the dryer ask to be either line dried or dried flat. Listen to those requests! It is the hot air and the tumble drying that wear out clothes so fast. Plus, by air drying, you are saving electricity on your bill.

If a garment is knitted rather than woven, it will most likely be asked to be dried flat. If you try to dry it on a hanger, the garment is going to lose its form and you'll end up with awkward bumps on the top of the shoulder. Most unsightly.  Lay these out on a towel as well and they should be dried with in a day or two.

Those with tags that say tumble dry low, can be tumble dried low with just about everything else that is left over.

Now, you are still not quite finished. After everything has dried out, pick up your iron and ruin it quickly over your linens, cottons and any wool that are wrinkled. Pay attention to the tag not the iron settings. Another annoying thing about synthetic fibers is that you can't iron them without turning them into plastic. Natural fibers can be ironed and have that lovely, crisp quality. Then hang everything in the closet right away rather than keeping it piled on your floor. After all that work, it would be a shame not to put things away properly.

Do you see why washer women were so Vital to the Victorians?

Much like this post, laundry can seem enormously challenging. But it's not. All told, it is maybe three hours of work spread out over two days time. Getting up to change the laundry, turn over the sweaters or iron a few shirts is a great study break and can calm the mind while the hands remain busy. Plus, the next time that you put on your sweater, skirt, shirt or otherwise, you know that you are wearing something of great personal value.

If anyone has tips, tricks or questions, I'd love to hear them. Again, if it seems I am doing something wrong, let me know.

Why Wear Wool (and Other Natural Fibers)

In an earlier post, I mentioned my desire to only buy and wear natural fabrics and promised a blog post of its own. Voila!

First a most basic overview:

Our clothing is made of fibers which can be divided into two categories: natural and man-made. Natural fibers (like wool, silk, cotton, linen, and hemp) are derived from animal or plant based products and are the fibers our ancestors have been spinning, weaving and wearing for centuries. Man-made products are a new invention- made within the last hundred and fifty years and are synthesized from petroleum by products and other chemically clever means (if anyone is interested in such a topic, I've probably learned enough Organic Chemistry to puzzle out the method.)

Now, there are some eco-friendly main made products synthesized from bamboo and other sustainable materials. As important as ecological consciousness is for a Neo-Aristocrat, fashion and budget are equally important. Most garments made from the trendy organic cotton or bamboo products are very minimalist and- in my opinion- aesthetically displeasing. Plus, you are unlikely to find them in a thrift store.

There are three reasons why I prefer natural fibers. The first comes from the benefits of wearing natural fibers. Due to various molecular and chemical formations, natural fibers last longer, are more breathable, contain some anti-microbial benefits and do not pill. May I repeat: they do not pill.

Most modern clothes are a mix of cotton and synthetic material designed to last maybe half a dozen times through the wash before ripping, tearing, falling apart, or creating those nasty little bundles of fiber that look and feel terrible to wear ie pills. At this point, the original wearer either tosses the shirt or, if moved by some desire to save the environment or help others, donates it to a thrift shop.  Quite frankly my dears, if you find the piece unwearable, your average thrift store shopper will too.

However, clothing of natural fibers is designed to hold up through many years of wearing and washing. Most of the clothing with a 100% natural fiber tag is still perfectly wearable by the time it reaches the thrift store. It looks and feels of a higher quality than most other items around it.

Which leads me to my second reason for loving natural fibers. They are more expensive to produce than man-made synthetics. Either plants must be cultivated or animals cared for- both which take much longer to grow than chemicals in a vat.

Generally, I've found that the more expensive the cloth the more innovative the design or, at least, the better quality the production. Higher end fabrics are marketed for higher end clothing- not discount or ridiculously cheap brands like what populate the modern malls of America. Higher end clothing tends to have the more interesting details and finishing that are absent from much of what I find in Forever 21. Better buttons, better seems, better zippers all result in a better product for you. (Of course, I realize that not all natural fiber pieces fit this stereotype, it is just the average of what I've found).

Finally, it is actually possible to find pieces like this. Due to trends in modern consumerism, much of the well made pieces are vintage or nearly so. At least, they don't fit exactly into the modern aesthetic. What? You don't care for a calf length wool skirt depicting an abstract french fishing village in muted blacks and greys? Well, by all means, it fits perfectly in my closet!

In short, yes, you do need to be a tad more discriminating. Yes, the pieces are harder to find. But it is worth it to have clothing that will be healthier for your body, last you longer, and be far more unique than what you can find in most modern stores. And with that: a new law of thrifting: buy for the fit and the aesthetic, not the fabric. Unless you are hungry for a new project.

I'll address maintenance concerns in a later post. Below are some links if you want to learn more about the health benefits of natural fibers- keep in mind the biases of most websites:

~ A lovely, basic overview of natural fibers

~ Everything you could possibly want to know about natural fibers and then some

~ A good graph to compare the relative strengths of different fibers

~ Why natural fibers are better in the landfill

How to Build your Winter Wardrobe

Winter has finally lifted her snowy hand from the ground. Birds sing in the trees, crocuses spring forth delicate and colorful, the weather turns practically balmy. As I prepare my cold weather clothing for storage,  I wanted to share an example of putting theory into practice. 

Spending the past four years in a warm and temperate climate did not prepare me for the chills and freezing weather of this Northern Clime. I had one sweater, one pair of winter socks and no long underwear or other layers to my name. When the first snow fell, my impulse was immediately to run to the nearest thrift store and buy as many sweaters as could fit into my arms as possible- regardless of size, material or color.

Such desperate measures do not become an Aristocratic Lady. How many times had purchases of desperation tided you over and then remained cluttering up your closet, never to be worn again? This was the perfect opportunity to practice designing a rational, aesthetically complete wardrobe. To purchase pieces I would love to wear, would match what already hung in my closet, and hold true to my aesthetic. But first, I needed to develop that aesthetic.

My first stop was to various blogs, tumblrs, cold weather adds and more. I skimmed through hundreds of pictures, sending any photo that even remotely caught my eye or my interest to a Winter Wardrobe file. After a week, a sizable collection had developed. This time, I flicked through those collected  photos and took stock of any themes in the photos. While a fur skirt is out of the question, alas, there was a noticeable trend towards fair isle designed, oversize sweaters, and many layers.  

But, in the course of my wandering through various books, I just finished "Overdressed: the surprisingly high cost of cheap fashion" by Elizabeth L Cline- an easy, informative overview of what is wrong with the modern garment industry. It was this book, however, that cemented my desire to only buy and wear natural fibers- but that is a blog post of it's own.

My final consideration was the realization that I disliked cardigans. No matter how good they look on the web or hanger, no matter how classy they seem, I feel frumpy when I wear them. Short, long, thin, thick, belted, not- I feel as though I've gained twenty pounds and fifty years with a single garment. No matter the price, fabric, or design- I was not going to add another item to my closet that would make me feel awful by the end of the day.

Armed now with a set of themes, the axiom of only 100% natural fibers and the resolve of no more cardigans, I finally ventured into the thrift store. What could have been an overwhelming selection, was now manageable  I passed over the solid colored sweaters and went straight to the patterned- flipping past the cardigans until I found 100% wool sweaters.

Now, three beautiful, adored sweaters are sitting on their shelf, ready to be packed away for the summer. They will keep me warm and elegant feeling for years. Plus I'll have the satisfaction of knowing that they are a result of not random chance, but careful consideration and planning. I am planning on doing the same with my summer wardrobe soon after the success of updating my winter one. I hope that you found this case study interesting and possibly helpful. There are so many fashion blogs and magazines, but so few that actually give a solid example of how to turn your aesthetic into reality. 

Has anyone had similar success with their wardrobes or have a different method for choosing clothes?