A Sewing Triumph: My First, Finished Skirt

The cover picture

Today I have finished my first solo sewing project: Folkwear's Walking Skirt. A long journey has finally finished and I wanted to share some of the adventures and lessons learned along the way.

It all started while browsing through my local thrift shop. I happened across nearly 4 yards of blue, damask fabric. In all honesty, it is probably upholstery fabric. The drape isn't terribly good and the pattern would look nice on a chair.

Now, I know I'm not a good seamstress yet. But I have been hankering for a floor length, Victorian-esque walking skirt to incorporate into my wardrobe. At only ten dollars for 3.75 yards, it was too good a deal to pass up. What better way to practice my skills?

Next, after considerable searching, I settled on folkwear's Walking Skirt pattern. Though I have never sewn with them before, their selection of ethnic and historical patterns are lovely. If you are a seamstress or want to be, check out their catalog.

A good, basic skirt

This is when I begin to regret not having a camera to show the step by step process.

As you can see from the line drawings, the skirt is pretty basic. A very good beginner's pieces. The pattern requires straight seams, gathering, slip stitching, and a button hole. If I didn't have the internet at my disposal, I might have panicked a bit more than I did. But looking up a few tutorials for each of the terms and mucking about myself, makes me feel confident enough to try it again.

Veteran seamstresses, hold your chuckles, but here are some lessons I've learned:

~ When the pattern gives you little marks, stars, or dots, mark them on your fabric when you're cutting them out. It save so much unfolding, repinning and then marking.

~ Invest in some sewing chalk. Pen, while seemingly a brilliant idea at 11 in the evening, is not. Especially when it is a contrasting color to your fabric.

~ If your fabric has nap (ie the front looks noticeably different from the back), make sure you can easily tell the different. I spent so much time peering at the fabric trying to see if I was looking at the front or back side.

~ Notches are easier to cut and match than the raised triangles.

~ After cutting, I would serge or finish the edges some how to keep the edges neater and from fraying.

~ Buttonholes are addicting.

~ I desperately need to learn to cut in a straight line. My edges were wonky, ragged and generally a mess. But I dismissed the confusion with the rationalization that "it will be hidden by the hems." Here's a hint: those wonky edges are what you will be following during your hemming. Which leads to:

~ I desperately need to learn to sew in a straight line. Wonky edges lead to wonky seams. Those little corrections that seemed so slight under the needle are noticeable on the fabric. Also, having all the fabric lined up before sewing.

~ In short: small imperfections compound.  If you aren't making mistakes or being frustrated, you're not learning.

Street and walking view lengths

As you probably guessed, the skirt came out a little wonky. I need to hem it again and actually measure for my height this time, rather than just follow the instructions. I'll also probably cut the button off and move it an inch to the left, to tighten the waistband. In fact  I'll probably create a new waistband and try it again at some point. But now?

I am pleased. Very pleased. The skirt is full and amazing. I love that I know how to make a placket and a button hole. My understanding of skirt anatomy has increased ten fold as has my comfort levels with adjusting and tailoring skirts. I also think I'll be able to salvage my utter failure of a recent drafting attempt. 

What are some stories from your first sewing adventures?

On an Aristocrat's Bookshelf: This Summer's Reading Challenge

Starting today, I will read a minimum 30 hours a week.

Yes, this comes out to 4 hours and 20 minutes a day.

Yes, this is the equivalent of picking up a part time job.

Yes, the time I will spend in class per week is but half of this goal.

One day my library will contain books like this

Yes, I am looking at my schedule and wondering why I am typing this number and not something more manageable like 10. Or, say, 5.

But there are two facts and one revelation that strengthen my resolve.

First, I am bored in school. Despite the assurances that it will get better, the improvement isn't scheduled until next fall. In the mean time I have only 15 credits to keep me occupied. Rather than suffer under the malaise of wondering if my best mental years are behind me, I'm going to do something difficult and challenging.

Second, Nicholas Nassim Taleb claims to have read for 30 to 60 hours a week all through his schooling. Since he is my current hero and because he claims that this reading has led him to his amazing ideas of Anti-fragility and Black Swans (titles of his books. Read them), I'll do the same.

Third, said author mentioned in that time that he never forced himself to finish a book. He read until it kept his interest and if he didn't understand something or found it too technically difficult, he moved on to something else rather than struggling through it.

That is the revelation. You are under no obligation to finish a book that bores you. None. How many times have I stalled in my reading because a plot didn't capture my interest or the subject matter was a little too technical? How many times have I put off picking up new books because I had so many half started?

You don't need to worry about that. Because this is extra curricular reading, there is no dead line, no necessity to finish. Who cares if it is one of the "greatest works of literature of all time?" Who cares if your friend swears you'll love it? If it doesn't capture your interest, there are thousands of other books out there that will.

Challenge details:

The University of Coimbra General Library, Coimbra, Portugal 

Challenge: To read for 30 hours each week.

Cost: none. I'll rely on many, many trips to the local library and the books I already have.

Specifications: Read only books that have been published at some point. (Alas, no fanfiction). Books can either be physical or electronic. Books can be from any genre and do not necessarily need to be "challenging" in and of themselves. Readings for school, outside of class, and for the first time will count. Books do not need to be on my book list, though crossing some of those off would be nice.

How to implement: I'll take most of the time from the time I spend online. Wake up  a little earlier and reach for my book rather than the computer. Bring books to bed and to school.

Foreseen problems: Feeling pressured to read rather than actually getting enjoyment for the story. If this happens too often, I'll stop. The 30 will be a loose goal not a fixed amount and I'll adjust as needed.

Foreseen consequences: I'll have to be more efficient with my correspondence and blogging. Not to mention school work. Fewer pictures with the blog and more posts about books and literature.

Re-evaluation times: I'll do a quick re-evaluation in a weeks time and post about that.

Wren Library, Trinity College, Cambridge

Would anyone care to join me in this challenge? If not, this would be a great time for book suggestions!

Aristocrat in the Kitchen: Learning to Cook

Despite the old walls, the kitchen still feels welcoming.

It is a sad fact of life that not all of us are born knowing how to cook. It is even sadder that reading through cook books, food blogs, or nutrition text books does not grant you the ability either. Oh, it is possible to slough through a cook book, following each recipe exactly, and emerge with some idea of how to cook. But it won't be that enviable competency of the kitchen.

The sort where, upon strolling into the grocery store and seeing tomatoes are on sale, immediately inventories their fridge and buys half a dozen knowing how to create salsas, pizza sauces and the like as soon as they return home. It isn't the sort who has rack upon rack of spices and tosses them into the soup seemingly at random- stopping only taste the broth, nod sagely to themselves and then a few more sprinkles of this and that and- Voila! Perfection in a bowl.

Luckily, if cook books lead to half knowledge and experimentation leads to unedible or bland constructions- in my experience- there is a very simple way to learn how to cook: ask a friend. Learning from another person is far more enjoyable than the other ways and, I believe, is far more instructive. Unlike a cook book, a friend can answer your specific questions or explain how to do some incomprehensible step. The process is very simple:

A dream stove.

1. Find a friend who is willing to teach you to cook. No doubt there is always someone who possess more knowledge in the kitchen than you. Be it your best friend or someone you would like to be better friends with, ask them. People like doing other people favors.

2. Choose a menu. Depending on your skill level, it is better to start with simple basics that you can make on a weekly basis without going over budget growing sick of. Pizza dough and pizza, roasted root vegetables, pasta sauce, home made soup, fruit tart, etc.

3. Go shopping. Everyone has their own route through the grocery store and their own small list of things to buy. Going shopping with a friend is like stepping into an entirely new building. Aisles you never traveled down before suddenly become full of new, exciting products. Plus sales or certain items might spark last minute menu revisions. An elegant touch is to offer to pay for all the groceries. After all, you're the student.

4. Cook! You may end up doing a lot of things you've done before- like chopping garlic or washing lettuce. But that's alright. Watch your friend carefully. Ask questions or for clarification. Pay attention to what spices or sauces are used. Play some nice music. Have a good conversation in the down time. Learn to clean as you cook.

5. Eat the food you prepared. Most cooks will have a commentary about what they have just made. The butter didn't cool enough. The chicken wasn't cut into small enough pieces. It could have used some more garlic salt. Listen to that and memorize the taste of the food. You are beginning to develop a palette for different dishes. Soon, possibly, you'll be able to deconstruct dishes at restaurants.

6. Make the food again. Within the next week, make each of the dishes you learned again. They won't be exactly the same. They won't taste quite as good. But you need to memorize how to make them and start learning to tell yourself that "Oh, this needs more salt" or "That was over cooked." This is also a good time to realize that you didn't remember how hot to have the oven or that you weren't paying close enough attention to the spices. Look it up online or call your friend.

7. Go back to the cook books. Now that you know the basics of how to roast a sweet potato or make a pizza, go to the cook books or online for inspiration and variation. Tastespotting is one of my favorite cooking sites. As you grow more comfortable with the foods, feel free to start improvising with ingredients or techniques. The more you learn, the more confident you'll be in the kitchen and the better your diet will become.

How did you learn to cook?

How to Beautify Your To-Do List

Beautiful, but not very practical

An inordinate amount of my free time is spent slipping through the interwebs looking for inspiration. Inspiration for what? Pictures of gorgeous ball gowns. Blog posts about how to elegantly hold a purse. Tips on how to politely inform your parents that you are goth/steampunk/alternative. All well and good bits of information if, when I shut the browser, I feel better about the world.

However, I don't attend balls- or many events that necessitate such extravagant formal wear as a poor grad student. My various cards, accouterments and the like are stored in my backpack or coat pockets- not a purse. And my parents have always supported my eccentric behaviors.

My internet time while, not exactly wasted, hasn't helped me find inspiration for the actual day to day tasks with which I am faced. Looking through the beautiful costumes and gowns is uplifting but not helpful when trying to pull together a practical outfit for sitting in class. Tips for lady-like actions from the turn of the century are inspiring, but not applicable to modern day juggling between job, school, family and friends. Watching the slow transformation of an ordinary kitchen to a gothic masterpiece is only so useful as  you have a kitchen to similarly transform.

Again, beautiful design with limited applicability.

In short, the inspiration found online is good for the soul but not direct application. To actually begin taking steps towards direct application, you need to for go your sources of inspiration and take a look at what you actually do in your day, wear in your week, or have in your room.

One of the most wearable and practical steampunk outfits I've found

For instance, I went through my day and came up with a basic list of activities of which I partake: breakfast,
commuting by foot to school, class note taking, class participation  lunch, homework, dinner, keeping in touch with friends, reading, blogging, letter writing and sewing. There are other activities interspersed depending on the season and location, but on a given day it is a good bet that I preform the majority of these activities.  Obviously, the list will be different for each person.

Lets take the first activity, breakfast. A normal, dull routine consisting of oatmeal with various garnishes and a cup of tea. How do I make this more Aristocratic? I could improve the setting: have flowers on the table. Make sure I sit down and eat leisurely  Include a fruit with breakfast. Take time to read through a novel or nothing at all rather than rush. Make sure I don't skip a meal. Again, it depends on your aesthetic for how you would improve this meal to better suit yourself.

Or take another: homework. For me, an Aristocrat studies for understanding the material rather than the test grade. This means completing all assignments in an orderly fashion. Pre-reading the lecture material and outlining sections to ask questions and going back to review material that may have been forgotten.

A much easier to attain aesthetic as well

Ideally, you should go through each of your activities and brainstorm a list of how to do such daily activity in a more elegant, gothic, steampunk, or lolita manner- depending on  your aesthetic. Then choose one aspect from one activity and practice it for a week. Pay attention to how it changes your life, how it makes you feel, and, if it improves your general day to day living, keep it. If not, move on to something else.  At the moment, I am trying not to rush through meals, but take them slow and consciously.

It is well and good to dream about your aesthetic or to live it on the weekend, but why limit yourself and live your days in humdrum existence?

Penpals and Interpals: How to Find a Penpal on the Internet

How I would like to look writing a letter

That letter writing is superior to e-mails or texts, is a first principle of most alternative cultures. The pleasure of receiving a thick envelope in the mail, reading another person's joys and sorrows in their own handwriting, feeling a real connection knowing that this letter was held in another's hands and traveled possibly thousands of miles to arrive at your door step. Nor need it be argued that the material of letter writing is infinitely preferable- the thick stationary, themed stamps, pens, fountain or quill, colored ink, and sealing wax. These are all able to reflect a particular aesthetic. But even a letter written on lined school paper in pencil is precious.

So, you have your paper, your pen, your desire to write the stories that clutter up your mind and have no outlet- but no address on your envelope. Correspondence isn't a single girl's game. There must be two to write.

I have six penpals to exchange letters with. Only two of them, my grandparents and my cousin, I knew previously. The other's are completely new. Where did I find them? On the internet.

"Pleasant Letter" by Alfred Stevens

There are many sites to help penpals find similarly minded people. I've tried several over the years and my favorite is Interpals. The basic process is simple. You sign up for a free account which lets you create a profile. On this profile you can write as much or as little as you choose, though there are prompts like favorite books, favorite movies, etc. Unless you restrict the privacy settings, you can go view the profiles of other people and others can view your profile. If you find someone who strikes your interest, you send them a message. 

Yes, before you object, there are creeps, dullards, and pervs on the site. There's no way to really filter them on a free site. However, you have complete control over how much information you reveal about yourself- and you certainly wouldn't put anything too confidential. There is also a handy tool to block users from looking, commenting or sending you a message. 

But these are a small percentage of the genuinely lovely population which makes up the site. The trick to finding like minded people is to know how to write your profile and what to look for in a penpal. These are my tips to finding a good penpal on the internet:

Think before you write.

First, know what you want out of a penpal. Do you want long heartfelt letters dripping in emotions for each letter? Or do you prefer something lighter, more day to day activities? Do you want a regular correspondent who sends off a letter ever two weeks? Or someone who writes longer, more irregular letters? Do you care about mail art? Or is the content good enough for you?

For me, I am an irregular correspondent and I warn my potential penpals of that from the first message. There are days that I am inspired to write a twenty page letter and there are times when two or three months pass without comment. Know yourself and don't expect more from others than you do yourself. I also prefer longer, more emotional letters to chatty letters- but again. Know your audience- it is possible to have many different flavors of correspondent. 

The Queen Mother writing letters before her marriage in 1923

Second, your profile:

~ Don't be stereotypical. This includes saying "I'm looking for interesting people." (Who isn't?), starting your profile with any variation of "Hi, My name is X. I am a X. I like X, X, X...." This is a chance to show your creativity and intelligence. In the same line, don't say "ask if you want to know more" when you have given the reader nothing to ask about.

~ Don't include a four inch paragraph of one word sound bites. Yes, it might pick up many more search keywords, but it is a pain to read through and gives very little about your personality.

~ Do write a long profile and update regularly. There is no shame in spending a great deal of time and effort making sure the face you are presenting to the world is as authentic, beautiful and thoughtful as possible. Yes, you are advertising yourself. That is why the website exists. So create a profile that strikes the balance between the person you'd like to talk with and who you are honestly. Personality isn't static.

~ Do include favorite books. It is the ultimate judge of a profile for me. I love Harry Potter and Lord of the Rings. I could probably quote more trivia than you'd believe possible. But if in the past twenty years you haven't read anything in the whole history of human fiction and non-fiction which you like better than Harry Potter- that is sad. Very sad. Also, if you want to speak with intelligent Europeans, your book list had better be extensive and varied. 

~ Do be polite with everyone. The annoying "hi how r u?" messages are inevitable. There are many ways to deal with them: block the offender, ignore the offender, send a brief "no thank you," or, my preferred method, a polite "no thank you" with a brief explanation of why you are declining the conversation. At least this way, they can see what mistake they made and maybe keep from doing it again.

~ Do respond to first messages promptly. If someone new messages you or someone replies to your opening message favorably, reply as soon as possible. It keeps the worry at bay.

~  Do be proactive in searching and messaging potential penpals. Don't wait for them to contact you first. Your first message should be short - no more than five sentences- show that you read the profile, ask a follow up question, and give them the chance to back out if they aren't interested. 

~ Do not be offended if someone doesn't wish to speak with you. There may not be that spark. There may not be the time. There may not be the interest. Either way, people are not obliged to speak with you. It is polite to give them a chance to back out to keep feathers from being ruffled. I ask that if they are too busy to write to give me a title of a book that they enjoyed, preferably from their country.

~ Do exchange several letters before giving out your address. Not only to make sure the person is trustworthy, but also to make sure that you have a good chemistry for writing.

~ Do have fun. This is a great way to be exposed to many different conversations and cultures. Be savvy, polite and never apologetic for your country. Think of good stories you want to share and specific things you want to know. 

In another post, I'll give my tips for writing a good letter. If you are interested in contacting me via interpals, my screen name is "EvelynCEC7B8." I'd love to talk. Have any of you used an online penpal finder?

Aesthetic Analysis: an Introduction

 On a lark, I went back to re-read my original introduction. The passion I captured still resonates, but I've only focused on two of the three purposes. This past month especially, I've been able to give some tips for applying the aesthetic and chronicled some episodes of my life. However, despite a general post about evolving knowledge for a wider aesthetic, this blog has been lax in actually discovering the aesthetic of a Neo-Aristocrat. Which is a shame, considering the hundreds of pictures I've collected over the years that have struck my fancy or made me think "Ah! This is Aristocratic."

Hence, an introduction of a new series: Inspiring your Aesthetic.

This will be a fun, easy series. Each post will include one picture from my collection, usually fashion related. Generally falling into either Steampunk, Lolita, or Gothic. There may be some architectural or interior design ideas. Maybe others. I'll explain what elements appeal to me about this picture, what can apply to me, and how I can add more of these elements to my daily life. Unfortunately, most of these pictures were collected long before I thought of sharing them on my blog, so I don't have credits or references. If you recognize one, please let me know where it is from so I can link back.

What I love most about this photo is the color composition. Everything matches without being monochrome. The wall matches the lampshade, which transforms into the pewter lamp, which connects to the glossy finish on the table. The woman's outfit matches as well. The white of the shirt matching the color of her corset while the corsets accents pull in the brown of the skirt.  Then the position of her hands, the empty space created by her arms, the tilt of her torso contrasted against the horizontal lines of the table- it is a beautifully composed piece which, like a flower arrangement, improves the longer I look.

Unfortunately, the look itself doesn't work on my body type. The colors themselves would be flattering and practical- I always think cream and brown are a lovely combination. However, my shoulders are broad enough that they excess mutton sleeves would make me look ridiculous. Considering I've never found a pencil skirt to flatter my hips, I doubt I'll find a fishtail dress that will. However, as a cleaner version of the traditional Victorian bustle, it works nicely on this model.

I do like some of the details. The tight wrists with the dark buttons alluding to spats is an interesting idea and relatively easy to do. If the sleeves were a little less full and mutton-y, I'd like the cut off at the elbow. The lack of sleeves would be neat and clean. No accidentally knocking a glass over with a sweeping gesture. The high neck with the ruffles is also a good touch, and the gathering at the bodice.

As for the decoration, I like it. Not for my entire house and probably not so minimal, but for a room? That grey is a beautiful color to paint the walls and I love how the complex carvings of the table contrasts with the simple lines of the lamp. The flowers add a touch of life and softness to the otherwise dead elements. As an entry way, with that the table for the mail? Yes.

Unfortunately, being a poor grad student with one room to my name, there is little direct aesthetic I can glean from this picture. There are a few lessons I can take forward:

~ I like the complementary colors. When choosing outfits or thrifting, I can look for pieces that match what I have in my closet better.

~ The dominant color scheme of my room is brown and red- yet all my furniture is varying shades of brown. This summer, I can buy some stain and darken the wood to a richer brown to match the red. I should also choose my accessories with more care- a more dominate theme might be beneficial.

~ I like the high collar and the button arms- those might be able to replicate in a shirt.

~ I can try to declutter many of the flat surfaces I have around my room. Make them a little less chaotic looking and a  little more stylish.

Was there any inspiration that you drew out of this picture?

Two Principles for Getting Along with Anyone

Conversation by Sergey Solomko

There are days when I wish I could retreat to a lonely castle in the mountains. My servants would be the spirits of the wind- silent and invisible. The nearest village would be a twenty mile hike through impenetrable wilderness. No one would talk to me and I would not have to talk to anyone.

For the sensitive among us- the artists, ladies, gentlemen for whom a casual comment wounds deeply- who can not just shrug off the words of the world, it can be difficult to navigate the treacherous waters of the social world. Was that comment meant in jest? Or was it meant as a subtle insult? Did the turn in conversation reflect some commentary on my actions? Or was it innocent and we are, once again, over reacting? Seeing demons in the mist?

For those of us with cut glass souls, it seems as there are two options in dealing with the world. Either we wrap our fragile hearts in a deep cloak of cynicism and irony- allowing not even the sincere comments to penetrate. Or we remain open, vulnerable, and continually exposed to the slings and arrows of outrageous conversion.

From Rttmsdag on Deviant Art

While I would not forgo my sensitive nature, there are two ways I've found to blunt the tongues and actions of others.

First, assume beautiful intent.

The laws of physics create too many beautiful phenomenal for the universe to be malevolent. Look at newly discovered nebula, artistic renditions of common proteins, or the patterns carved into the sand by wind and water. Maybe these aren't inherently beautiful, but humans have found them so. In the same way, even if we can't apply the words good or bad to the universe entire, we can certainly choose to appreciate it as beautiful  rather than ugly.

Applying this idea further, when meeting or interacting with people, assume they are being governed by the same laws of physics that created all of these glorious phenomena and are the best they can possibly be at that moment. Maybe you can't see it right now, but you might also not be aware of all the various factors in their life which are exerting an influence on them. The quiet, withdrawn person who didn't return your greeting so enthusiastically might be suffering from bad news or impending job loss.  We might never be aware of every factor in their lives, so better to assume they are being the best they can be.

From "How to End a Conversation"

However, if something hurtful rather than negligent slips, fall back to the second principle:

Never attribute to malice what can be adequately explained by incompetence.

Hanlon's razor is not the most flattering image of humanity, but has proven true in most cases. It has also helped me more than the first principle because it relies on an underlying principle which I know is true "You are not the center of the world." Quite honestly, none of us are important enough to incur the malice of everyone we meet. (If you are, well done.  You've lived a more Nietzchen life than me).

People's thoughtless comments are rarely planned out carefully with the intention to hurt. Twists in the conversation are almost never commentary about some aspect of yourself. Most likely, people are forgetful, stupid, or haven't made certain connections. If you point out how a comment made you feel, most will be horrified and, probably, think you a little strange for being so affected.

Plus, in all honesty, it certainly feels better to think that the hurtful comment was the mistake of someone else rather than one of your own.

An Elegant Soiree

The next time you're in a conversation or go to a party, try to enter assuming beautiful intent. If that doesn't sweep away the niggling barbs, assume incompetence rather than malice. People aren't out in the world to make you miserable.

A final thought. If you have met someone who does unleash a near constant or reliable stream of perceived insults, limit your interactions with them. Their negativity is unnecessary in your life. If you can't get away, try talking to them and explaining how their words are perceived.